Why Planting Plan Needed?

THE PLANTING PLAN 

Having named the garden spot, the coming consideration, naturally, is what shall be planted in it. 

The old way was to get many seed registers, pick out a list of the vegetables most madly described by the( wholly disinterested) seedsman, and also, when the time came, to put them in at one or two plantings, and sowing each kind as far as the seed would go. 

There's a better way-- a way to make the garden produce further, to yield effects when you want them, and in the proper proportions. 

All these advantages, you may suppose, must mean further work. 

On the negative, still, the new way makes veritably much lower work and makes results a hundred percent. more certain. 

It isn't necessary indeed that further study be put upon the theater, but farsightedness there must be. 

Far-sightedness, still, is much more satisfactory than hind study. 

In the new way of gardening, there are four great bits of help, four effects that will be of great backing to the educated gardener, and that are necessary to the success of the freshman. 

They're the Planting Plan, the Planting Table, the Check List, and the Garden Record. 

Don't come discouraged at the redoubtable sound of that paragraph and decide that after all, you don't want to fuss so much over your garden; that you're doing it for the fun of the thing anyway, and similar intricate systems won't be worth bothering with. 

The purpose of the four gardens is simply to make your work less and your returns more. 

You might just as well refuse to use a wheel hoe because the trowel was good enough for your grandmother's garden, as to refuse to take advantage of the ultramodern theater styles described in this chapter. 

Without using them to some extent, or in some modified form, you can noway know just what you're doing with your garden or what advancements to make coming time. 

Of course, each of the plans or lists suggested then is only one of numerous possible combinations. 

You should be able to find, or better still construct, analogous bones more suited to your taste, need, and occasion. That, still, does not lessen the necessity of using some similar system. 

It's just as necessary an aid to the maximum effectiveness in gardening as are ultramodern tools. 

Do not sweat that you'll waste time on the planting plan. 

Master it and use it, for only so can you make your garden time count for the utmost in producing results. 

In the average small garden, there is a veritably large chance of waste-- for two weeks, further string sap than can be eaten or given away; and also, for a month, none at each, for the case. 

You should determine ahead as nearly as possible how important each vegetable your table will bear and also try to grow enough of each for a nonstop force, and no more. 

It's just this that the planting plan enables you to do. 

I shall describe, as briefly as possible, forms of the planting plan, planting table, roster, and record, which I've set up accessible to use. 

To make the Planting Plan take a distance of white paper and a sovereign and mark off a space the shape of your garden which should be blockish if possible, use a scale of one-quarter or one-eighth inch to the bottom. 

Rows fifty bases long will be set up at an accessible length for the average home garden.

In a garden where numerous kinds of effects are grown, it'll be stylish to run the rows the short way of the piece. 

We will take a fifty-bottom row for illustration, though of course it can readily be changed in proportion where rows of that length can't accessibly be made. 

In a veritably small garden, it'll be better to make the row, say, twenty-five bases long, the end always keeping the row a unit and have as many broken bones as possible, and still not have to plant further of any one thing that will be demanded. 

In assigning space for the colorful vegetables several effects should be kept in mind to grease planting, replanting, and cultivating the garden. 

These can most snappily be realized about the plan illustrated herewith. 

You'll notice that crops that remain for several times-- rhubarb and asparagus-- are kept at one end. Coming come similar as will remain a whole season-- parsnips, carrots, onions, and the like. 

And eventually, those that will be used for a race of crops-- peas, lettuce, spinach. also, altitudinous growing crops, like pole sap, are kept to the north of lower bones. 

In the plan illustrated the space given to each variety is distributed according to the proportion in which they're naturally used. 

If you have a special weakness for peas, or your mama-in-law an aversion to peppers, keep these tastes and analogous bones in mind when laying out your planting plan. 

Don't leave the planning of your garden until you're ready to put the seeds in the ground and also do it all in a rush. 

Do it in January, as soon as you have entered the new time's registers, and when you have time study them and look up your record of the former time. 

Every hour spent on the plan will mean several hours saved in the garden. 

The Planting Table is the coming important system in the business of gardening, especially for freshmen. 

In it one can see at regarding all the details of the particular treatment each vegetable requires-- when to sow, how deep, how far piecemeal the rows should be, etc. 

I flashback at how numerous passages from the garden to the house to hunt through registers.