upTHE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION:
Having considered, as completely as the limited space available permitted, the matter of factory foods, we must do to the inversely an important one of how duly to set the table, on or rather in, which they must be placed before the shops can use them.
As was noted in the first part of the interesting chapter, utmost green soils contain the necessary factory food rudiments to a considerable extent, but only to a veritably limited degree in, available, forms.
They're locked up in the soil cuddy, and only after witnessing physical and chemical changes may be taken up by the feeding roots of shops.
They're uncorked only by the decomposition and corruption of the soil patches, under the influence of civilization-- or mechanical breaking up-- and the access to water, air, and heat.
The great significance of the part the soil must play in every theater operation is thus readily seen.
In the first place, it's needed to furnish all the factory food rudiments-- some seven in number, besides the three, nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash, formerly mentioned. Second, it must hold the humidity in which these foods must be either dissolved or suspended before factory roots can take them up.
The soil is naturally classified in two ways first, the quantum of factory food contained; second, as to its mechanical condition-- the relative proportions of beach, perished gravestone, and complexion, of which it is made up, and also the degree to which it has been broken up by civilization.
The approximate quantum of available factory food formerly contained in the soil can be determined satisfactorily only by trial.
As before stated, still, nearly without exception, they will need liberal manuring to produce good theater crops.
I shall thus not go further into the first bracket of soils mentioned. Of soils, according to their variation in mechanical texture, I shall mention only the three which the home gardener is likely to encounter.
jewels are the original base of all soils, and according to the degree of fineness to which they've been reduced, through centuries of corruption by air, humidity, and frost, they're known as husky, flaxen, or muddy soils.
CLAY SOILS are stiff, wet, heavy, and generally" cold." For theater purposes, until duly converted, they hold too important water, are delicate to handle, and are" late." But indeed if there's no choice but complexion soil for the home theater, the gardener need not be discouraged.
By proper treatment, it may be brought into excellent condition for growing vegetables and will produce some feathers, similar to celery, better than any warm, light," theater " soil.
The first thing to do with the complexion soil theater is to have it completely drained. For the small quantum of ground generally needed for a home theater, this will number no great expenditure.
Under ordinary conditions, a half-acre theater could be under-drained for from$ 25 to$ 50-- presumably nearer the first figure. The rainspouts-- round drain pipe, with collars-- should be placed at least three bases deep, and if they can be put in four, it'll be much better.
The lines should be, for the former depth, twenty to thirty bases piecemeal, according to the character of the soil; if four bases are deep, they will negotiate just as important if put thirty to fifty bases piecemeal-- so it pays to put them in deep. For small areas2-1/2- an inch of land pipe will do.
The round style gives stylish satisfaction and will prove the cheapest in the end.
The outlet should of course be at the smallest point of land, and all rain pouts, main and laterals, should fall slightly, but without exception, toward this point.
Before bearing to put in the rain spouts, indeed in a small area, it'll pay well to read some good books on the subject, similar to Draining for Profit and Draining for Health, by Waring. But drain-- if your land requires it.
It'll increase the productivity of your theater by at least 50 to 100 percent. -- and such an increase, as you can readily see, will pay a veritably handsome periodic Tip on the cost of draining. also, the draining system, if duly put in, will virtually noway need renewal.
The other way to reduce complexion soils is by using coarse vegetable coprolites, large amounts of stable, coprolites, ashes, chips, sawdust, beach, or any analogous accouterments, which will tend to break up and lighten the soil mechanically.
Lime and land catalyst is also precious, as they beget chemical changes which tend to break up muddy soils.
The fourth thing to do in treating a theater of heavy soil is to plow, piling up as much as possible, in the fall, therefore leaving the soil exposed to the pounding influences of rainfall and frost. generally, it will not need replacing in the spring. However, If not furrowed until the spring.
care should be taken not to dig up until it has dried out sufficiently to deteriorate from the plow, rather than making a wet, doughy crinkle.
The proprietor of a muddy theater has one big consolation. It'll not let his factory food go to waste.
It'll hold coprolites and diseases incorporated with it longer than any other soil.
SANDY SOIL is, as the term implies, composed largely of beach, and is the reverse of complexion soil. So, also, with the treatment. It should be so handled as to be kept as compact as possible.
The use of a heavy comber, as constantly as possible, will prove veritably salutary. Sowing or planting should follow incontinently after furrowing, and diseases or coprolites should be applied only incontinently before.
0 Comments